Hoi An

Contrary to belief...

Where to dine, and where not to, in Uzbekistan (according to yours truly)

Let me start by saying I didn't fall head over heels for Uzbek cuisine as a whole, but I did have some bloody good meals. And, I was converted from mostly pescatarian to being obsessed with grilled meat… so much so that I went home and bought myself a portable BBQ. Great investment to be fair.

Anyway in order of cities I visited and no partnerships involved, these were the top ones I ate in. To stay true to my honesty, I’ve also thrown in a little curveball featuring a restaurant that’s views are way more impressive than the mediocre food.

Khiva

Tandiriy

Gorgeous restaurant design and a really nice place to sit down.

I had fresh apple juice, a pumpkin and feta salad and Shivit Oshi, a traditional Khivan dish made with green noodles topped with a savoury stew of beef, potatoes and carrots. I think this might have been the first time I’d ever willingly ordered a dish with beef chunks, purely to try something local and for the price, but was surprised at how tender and tasty it was. Everything came to around €10 including tip, which made it even better.

Safia Cafe

I went here a couple of times for iced coffee and a little snack, purely to escape the heat and/or work. I'm not much of a sweet tooth, so I was hoping the savoury options would do the job, but actually, the cakes were much better.

They were all very affordable and this cute little dessert with a chicken pastry and water came to around €2.30!

I think they have a couple of other shops in the other major cities as well.

Bukhara

Joy Lounge

I rarely go to the same restaurant twice, let alone two nights in a row, but after a perfect first meal and finding they had a sunset terrace, I had to reserve a table for the following night.

The first time I had a mixed salad and fried lagman, a typical noodle dish made with hand-pulled or stretched noodles, tender beef, a rich, slightly spiced tomato sauce and an egg. It sounds pretty simple, but it was incredible, honestly. The whole meal, with a lemonade came to around €12.50 with tip.

Unfortunately, I got a little heat-sick later that evening and felt pretty rough up until the next day, but I wasn’t giving up my sunset dinner! So I went for something lighter and ordered kayish with beans and vegetables, a tomatoey stew with dumpling sheets underneath. Plus, a samsa to try and a giant pot of tea, which I was expecting to be just a cup… apparently this is normal in Uzbekistan so who am I to question or complain!

That second visit, with that phenomenal view, cost around €7!

Magic House

I swear, the best freakin' affogato I had.

Two of my favourite things in the world: strong coffee and gelato! It was absolutely perfect for the 40-degree heat.

While I was there though, I also wanted to try their pumpkin manti. These are dumplings but you can also order them with meat or other things. Turkey has a similar dish that I adore, but the Uzbek variety differ slightly in their prep styles and fillings.

The café itself is really cute and cosy, with a carpet workshop and carpets hanging all over the walls. But, the one drawback is the service wasn't great at all and the main server seemed a bit hostile/unfriendly.

Despite that though, I'd still recommend it and go back even just for that affogato.

Bon!

A lovely, cosy cafe, decorated in a sort of French-style, offering an insane selection of breakfast bits, sweets, pastries, sandwiches, yoghurts - you name it! The coffee was wonderful and it took me forever to choose what to get to eat. I was most drawn to what looked like this giant coffee bean: apparently, filled with cream and what not to resemble tiramisu (my favourite dessert of all time). Unfortunately, the looks were deceiving and it lacked the right flavour, but overall, I really liked the other things I got and would still recommend it! 

Samarkand

Sayqali Chayhana

I can’t say a whole lot about this one, since the main reason I found it was because I was bursting for the toilet. However, I thought why not kill two birds with one stone, use the bathroom and have a sweet afternoon treat?

I enjoyed a cappuccino (my go-to) and a piece of traditional honey cake, which essentially is honey-infused sponge or cookie layers, with cream filling made using whipped butter and condensed milk. This version was layered and I have to say, very tasty! It’s not too sweet, but just the right amount to get your sugar fix. It’s really nice if you want to sit outside since the restaurant is located on Tashkent Road: Samarkand’s major pedestrian walkway that sort of connects all of its iconic Silk Road landmarks.

Bobur

I went here a couple of times for iced coffee and a little snack, purely to escape the heat. I'm not much of a sweet tooth, so I was hoping the savoury options would do the job, but actually, the cakes were much better.

They were all very affordable and this cute little dessert with a chicken pastry and coffee came to around €2.30!

I think they have a couple of other shops in the other major cities.

Yes, it has some of the best views over the city, but the food was mediocre and the service was even worse, so for me it absolutely didn't justify the inflated price.

I am typically very patient and understanding when it comes to eating out but it took 20 minutes just to get a menu and that was only after I'd asked for it. Then almost another hour for the main meal to arrive (which was the lagman I’d tried in Joy). Sadly, the beef was tough and, while it was fine, it was nothing special, especially compared with what I'd eaten elsewhere for a fraction of the price.

I somehow still waited it out long enough to order dessert, which also didn't really hit the mark. Maybe I caught them on a bad night, and I get it was busy, but overall for the price, I wouldn't bother.

Emirhan - The One I'd Skip

Final Thoughts

I didn't come away from Uzbekistan thinking I'd discovered my new favourite cuisine, but I definitely left with a few meals I absolutely loved. The shashlik, fresh bread, samsas and that ridiculous affogato in Bukhara were all highlights I can definitely recommend. So if you visit, try the local food for yourself and leave a little room for the unexpected.