Uzbekistan: 8 Days Through the Old and the New

At a Glance

Best for: Ancient cities, Silk Road history, unique architecture & culture
Where I stayed: Khiva • Bukhara • Samarkand
Solo Friendly: ★★★★★ — Easy & safe to travel independently
Budget: $ - Very affordable for accommodation, food & transport (on par with SE Asia)
Transport: International flight + trains & taxis (Yandex app)

I chose the beautiful country of Uzbekistan as a trip in its own right, rather than trying to combine it with a bigger Silk Road trip or tack it onto other parts of Asia. The main culprit being… my drone.

One of a few places that do not allow you to step foot in it while you’re carrying one. So although Cece unfortunately had to stay behind, it was a superb trip that makes me even more excited to see what else there is on the Silk Road path.

I began in Khiva, which was difficult from where I live in Zurich. You have to connect through Istanbul and fly to Urgench (30 mins away from Khiva but just 4-5€ taxi ride), but planes are far and few between with just a couple per week.. maybe that’s why less people make it a priority to go. However, it’s worth the planning, even just for a day or two.

And, after an amazing couple days there, I took a (very stuffy) 6 hour sleeper-style train to Bukhara… where I took a shower in my own sweat thanks to the small cabins, 40c heat and AC that pauses functionality when we stop.

I am not sure why some say Bukhara is like a disneyland, at least I didn’t feel like it. It’s beautiful, historical and relaxing, so another lovely stop for 2-3 more days. Then over to the last city, of course, Samarkand. Luckily a much shorter distance of just a couple hours, with trains that are more modern, comfortable and better equipped for the heat.

I gave myself extra time in Samarkand because I wanted to take it at my own pace and actually enjoy the city rather than rushing through it. I was also working while I was there, so it was nice to have that holiday-mode routine where I could wake up slowly, eat breakfast, walk around, swim and get ready for dinner.

Khiva - 1–2 days

This tiny city is more than 2,500 years old, and its walled inner city, Itchan Kala, is basically an open-air museum. The walls reach up to 10 metres high, and in them, a maze of mosques, madrasas, mausoleums and old houses (more than 50 historic monuments in total). It was once an important stop for caravans travelling the Silk Road, and was the last resting place before crossing the desert towards Persia.

Khiva is very compact and easy to explore on foot, but has a special glow at sunset and sunrise. I'd climb Islam Khoja Minaret for the views, wander along the city walls, visit Juma Mosque with its incredible 212 wooden columns, and finish the day at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the old town.

Truthfully, there isn't a huge list of things you need to tick off here so one full day is theoretically enough, but I'd stay overnight so you can properly experience it in different light and without rushing.

*A furry friend exploring the local ceramics and paintings*

🛏️ Where I Stayed - Carousel Hostel

I stayed at Carousel Hostel, which was soooo fantastic. It's run by a family of brothers who were incredibly kind : we even ended up having an impromptu karaoke session with one of them and a fellow solo traveller friend from Sweden.

And just €11 a night including a lovely breakfast, for a gorgeous, comfortable room, with towels, slippers and toiletries provided.

The bathroom was absolutely huge, with a shower/jacuzzi bath. It was a little dated and could definitely use a touch-up, and there was no window so it got a bit damp, but honestly? For the price, I had absolutely no complaints.

Bukhara - 2–3 days

I did 2.5 days which was more than enough but was great. A place with somewhat of a different feel to Khiva. It's busier, livelier, but still has so much breathtaking history.

And there is a lot of it. Bukhara's historic centre is more than 2,000 years old and was one of Central Asia's major centres of culture and Islamic learning. From the 10th-century Ismail Samani Mausoleum to the 11th-century Poi Kalyan Minaret and the later madrasas and trading domes, you're basically walking through several different periods of the city's history in a very small area. To get a good sense of it all, booking a guide is a good idea!

I really enjoyed walking during the evening around Lyabi Hauz and wandering through the historic Trading Domes. Then there's Chor Minor, little cafés to escape the heat and some more unusual experiences if you fancy doing something beyond sightseeing.

Want to know how I'd spend a full day here?
→ Bukhara: A Day of Domes, Affogato & Wandering

🏡 Wander & You Shall Find

I stayed in a little family-run B&B tucked down a very inconspicuous alley. But when the door opens… wow!

For around €20 a night, you have a gorgeous room overlooking the beautiful courtyard, the most wonderful home-cooked breakfast each morning and warm hospitality.

The family actually live there too, which, me being me, made me feel a bit shy at first. But they were so sweet and welcoming that I quickly got over myself. They even did my washing for me for a very fair price, which after travelling around in 40°C heat was frankly a godsend. I went through around 3 laundry loads in total.

The price though, still seems slightly ridiculous to me!

Samarkand - 3–5 days

Maybe one of the most infamous cities in the country, Samarkand has more than 2,500 years of history, and UNESCO describes it as a crossroads of cultures. The ancient city of Afrasiab was founded as early as the 7th century BC, but Samarkand really flourished during the 14th and 15th centuries, when it became the capital of the powerful Timurid Empire. This is the period that gave the city many of the spectacular monuments you see today.

I stayed almost 5 days to fully enjoy it at a slow place but if you’re a bit shorter on time, you definitely do not need more than 3 days. I did it as I was working and it was nice to do that while by the pool, I wanted like a vacation mode style where I can wake up slow, eat breakfast, walk, swim and get ready for dinner, that sort of thing.

Now what to do: you’ve of course got the gorgeous Registan Square, which has a nightly light show, but also stunning are Shah-i-Zinda, Bibi-Khanym Mosque and Gur-e-Amir. Don’t forget to stop by Siyob Bazaar for some nice souvenirs (I bought some traditional stork scissors and delicious local sweets). Then, for evening time, The Eternal City is a modern complex with restaurants, rides, free performances at the amphitheatre, a bazaar and more!

Need a little more info?

Samarkand: Three Days Would've Done. I Stayed Five.

Round up

Overall, eight days felt like a really good amount of time to get a taste of Uzbekistan without hurrying through it to catch the next train. Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand, while sharing similarities, still felt a little different from each other and I’m glad I had ample ample in every city.

Hungry? Here, I’ve also put together my favourite food and drink spots from the trip, including the BBQ’d meat I became oddly quite obsessed with.

Need a bit more of the general info? Click to get familiar with the trains, SIM cards, money, dress code and other little things that made travelling through Uzbekistan easier.