Krabi: One Week, Zero Chill
I planned to have a week in Krabi as a bit of down time from all the exploring I’d done in Vietnam… yet somehow, I still managed to fill almost every day with something. But that’s me, someone who can rarely sit still and just laze about.
Looking at the bigger picture, I was a little nervous to visit the region, having an impression it would be way too overcrowded and party-focused. But, as it turned out, Ao Nang/Krabi had way more to it than bars, backpackers and beaches. Once you get out on the water or away from the main strip, it becomes a completely different experience. So here’s my little run down of what I got up to while there.
Island hopping
Once again, probably best to start with the most obvious that comes to mind when you think of Krabi. I think it’s an unspoken rule that when you visit, getting on a boat is a must.
The limestone cliffs, little islands and insanely clear water are probably what you imagine when you think of southern Thailand, and seeing them from the water is even better.
Below are a few activities that I booked and loved, including private longtails, but you can find shared ones at the beach or alternative tours for a lot less money. Tonsai is another option if you're into rock climbing or just fancy chilling somewhere a little different.
Private Longtail Boat with Beach Picnic
5-10 hours, from €190 per group up to 4
I organised this tour twice: once for a half day and once for a full day. The price is per boat rather than per person, with up to four people, so it can actually work out pretty well if you're travelling with a group. Depending on which option you choose, you can head to Hong Island, Phi Phi or the 4 Islands, with stops around places like Chicken Island, Poda Island, Tub Island and Railay. You get your own longtail boat, a guide, snorkelling gear and a gorgeous beach picnic laid out for you, so you can swim, snorkel and explore without being tied to a big group schedule.
Hong Island viewpoint
So... I caved in and went to Maya Bay…
Truthfully, I didn't give two shits about it but while I was in Krabi, I said fine… let’s just go and worst case, I’m still doing my favourite thing (swimming and being on a boat).
So anyway I booked the early-bird Phi Phi and four-island speedboat tour below, mainly because I wanted to get there before the worst of the crowds. The day starts crazy early, as expected, but you arrive at Maya Bay around the early part of the day before continuing around Phi Phi, Pileh Lagoon and other islands.
Honestly though, Maya Bay is beautiful. I'm not going to pretend otherwise. However as well as there being too many people, you can't even swim there. All in all though I'm glad I saw it once. I just wouldn't plan an entire trip around it.
Phi Phi Early Bird & 4 Islands by Speedboat
9 hours, from €70 per person
Life's a beach until... it's not
For nature lovers, or those of you who might not want sandy toes this time, spending some time kayaking through the Ao Thalane mangroves provides a nice change of scenery.Instead of turquoise water and beaches, you're paddling through narrow channels surrounded by limestone cliffs and thick mangrove forest.
Kayaking Through the Mangroves
4.5 hours, from €31 per person
If you’re feeling a little snacky…
There's plenty of touristy food around Ao Nang, obviously, but I need to give a massive shout out to the night food market, which was one of my favourite places to eat. It was full of all the stalls you could imagine: local dishes, snacks and desserts, even pizza cones, which I haven’t found since Rome many years ago!
Go, make an evening of it and fill yourselves up.
The one thing I chose not to do
You'll notice I haven't included any elephant experiences in any of my guides, or in general any similar animal activities. That's deliberate.
I avoided especially elephant ‘sanctuaries’ because a lot of these experiences marketed to tourists involve feeding, bathing or otherwise interacting with the elephants. As confirmed by a genuine rehabilitation centre in Kenya, usually any form of handling is not exactly ethical just because they're presented as a responsible tourist experience.
I'd rather admire animals without needing to touch them, bathe them or get the obligatory holiday photo. But that’s just me.
Where I Stayed
I booked Poonsiri Resort Aonang, where you can stay in overwater bungalows for around… €100 a night!
For that price, I was expecting some sort of catch.
Upon arrival, you get picked up by a golf cart and taken to your bungalow, where on the way, you find a lot of naughty monkeys (learn from my mistake and avoid leaving stuff on the balcony… you can otherwise say goodbye to them).
Now as promised, being 100% honest, the bungalow was okay, certainly nothing fancy and perhaps in need of a bit of a makeover. But for the cost, you have these incredible surroundings, free kayak rentals and a lovely pool to enjoy.
Final Thoughts
Krabi gave me exactly what I wanted from southern Thailand: beautiful islands and beaches, but also plenty of opportunities to get out and actually explore.
Granted, parts of it are touristy and some can be quite heavy on the party-atmosphere. But spend a little less time on the main strip and there's a lot more to Krabi than you might expect.
Zero chill? Absolutely.
Worth it? Also absolutely!