Coastlines to Cities: 2 Weeks in Portugal

At a Glance

Best for: Coastline, food, city breaks & wine
Where I stayed: Faro • Lagos • Lisbon • Porto (plus Loulé & Sintra)
Solo Friendly: ★★★★★
Budget: $$
Transport: Trains, buses & Uber

From the Algarve, to Lisbon, Sintra and Porto

Portugal remains one of my favourite countries in Europe and I'm still surprised it isn't talked about more alongside places like Italy, France and Greece.

It has a bit of everything: beautiful beaches, dramatic coastlines, incredible cities, history, architecture, fantastic seafood and genuinely lovely people. As a solo traveller, I felt incredibly safe and relaxed throughout the entire trip.

For most of this journey, I stayed in hostels as I wanted to meet other travellers. As expected, a few interesting friendships were formed along the way. There was accidental day drinking, an Italian admitting they liked Hawaiian pizza (still not over that one) and a couple of... let's call them holiday romances.

Faro: The Gateway to the Algarve

One of the easiest ways to get to this side of Portugal is of course by flight to Faro and working your way up, though I personally wouldn't spend more than two days here. It's pretty, pleasant and nice to explore, but compared to the rest of the Algarve there isn't as much to do.

Whilst there, I visited the Capela dos Ossos (Bone Chapel), which is every bit as creepy as it sounds but also fascinating, explored around the town and spent another half day or so taking a boat trip to the islands of Deserta and Farol.

Since I ran out of things to do, I had a bit of an urge to go somewhere completely random/off the beaten path, which is how I dIscovered the tiny market town of Loule. Just a few hours there is enough and it’s easy enough to go with the train, taking around 15 minutes or so.

While you’re there:

✦ Faro Old Town

✦ Capela dos Ossos (Igreja do Carmo)

✦ Arco da Vila

✦ Faro Marina

✦ Boat trip to Deserta Island

✦ Boat trip to Farol Island

✦ Day trip to Loulé

Lagos: Golden cliffs, hidden beaches and spectacular scenery

Lagos truthfully, exceeded my expectations. While tourists flock to Greece (she says, but goes there after Portugal), and Italy, for me it was a bit quieter and more affordable, while offering similar things. No matter if like me, you’re a fan of beautiful waters and quaint, colourful seaside towns, or more adventurous and into nature, Lagos has something for everyone.

The town itself is lovely to wander around and one of my fondest memories I have to say, was spontaneously finding some live music in the centre and enjoying it with my mum over FaceTime (she loves that sort of thing).

Another highlight for me that I can really recommend, was seeing the infamous Benagil Cave. Because the beach inside is only accessible by water, it made the most sense to book this sort of tour. Especially in the summer heat, it’s really nice to do to keep cool and just in general for a change of scenery.

One thing I religiously love to do wherever I travel, and even at home, is a little picnic in nature. Even if that just involves a few snacks. So that I did, at Ponta da Piedade during sunset. A little wine and whatever bits and pieces I could find, with the most gorgeous view of the coast.

Also while you’re in Lagos:

✦ Praia do Camilo

✦ Praia Dona Ana

✦ Lagos Old Town

✦ Walk the cliff boardwalk between Praia do Camilo & Ponta da Piedade

Lisbon: Colourful streets, viewpoints and very delicious bites

I based myself in Lisbon and stayed at the fantastic Memmo Alfama Hotel, which has a pretty pool overlooking the hill-top part of the city. To be honest, the pool is deceiving as what might appear on the photo as a normal depth, was actually incredibly shallow and to achieve a decent photo meant kneeling. The hotel itself is wonderful though, if you’re ok with walking a little uphill to reach it.

Now Lisbon itself is one which really rewards wandering. I really enjoy let’s say, ‘the art of doing nothing’ and that includes getting lost in narrow streets, finding cute tiny cafés, viewpoints and colourful buildings. The city is built across several hills, so be prepared to walk. A lot… and take it from me, packing only heeled shoes was the worst possible idea and walking up said hills felt like treading ice.

As you may, or may not, know, I’m a huge fan of anything that involves trying local food, so a food tour was an obvious choice. We tried so many lovely things, like Pastel de Nata (the beginning of a love affair), various cold cuts and cheeses, bacalau and port wine. You can book the same one I did here (but go with a very empty stomach).

Then, if you’d like a bit more of an explorative activity which lets you avoid the worst parts of the steep hills, while giving information about the city, I’d also highly recommend this tuk tuk tour.

A few nice places to go for nice bites include Time Out Market, the creative and rather quirky LX Factory and Nicolau Brunch. I know Nicolau is a bit hyped online, but when I went (multiple times, also in Porto), it was always fantastic.

While you’re there:

✦ Wander through Alfama, Lisbon's oldest and most colourful neighbourhood

✦ Visit Praça do Comércio and the waterfront

✦ Explore Belém Tower

✦ Visit Jerónimos Monastery

✦ Enjoy the views and sunsets from viewpoints like Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

✦ Ride the iconic Tram 28(if you don't mind the queues!)

✦ Walk down Rua Augusta

✦ Try Pastéis de Belém for Portugal's famous custard tarts

✦ Enjoy fresh seafood at Cervejaria Ramiro

✦ Join a food tour to discover traditional Portuguese dishes

✦ Explore the city by tuk tuk

✦ Book a photoshoot if you fancy some professional travel photos

Once the summer retreat of Portuguese royalty, it's now one of the country's most popular day trips and it's easy to see why. Between the colourful palaces, ancient castles, forests and incredible viewpoints, it feels like a completely different world from Lisbon.

Getting there is super simple and regular trains leave from Rossio Station, taking around 40 minutes, so there's no need to hire a car. Once you arrive, most of the main sights are spread across the hills, so I'd recommend using the local Scotturb buses (434 & 435) or a tuk tuk/Uber rather than trying to walk between everything. Trust me... your legs will really thank you.

What and how’s:

✦ Pena Palace

✦ Quinta da Regaleira (my personal favourite)

✦ Castelo dos Mouros

✦ Sintra National Palace (if you have time)

✦ Wander the historic town centre

✦ Try a Travesseiro pastry from Piriquita

✦ Take the 434 tourist bus between the station, historic centre, Moorish Castle and Pena Palace

✦ Arrive early: it gets incredibly busy, especially in summer and there’s so much to see. In one day, it’s already a squeeze

Porto: If Lisbon has your heart, Porto steals your soul

I’m not quite sure how to explain this city but it sure feels different from Lisbon. More traditional, more compact and somewhat more charming.

The riverside area is beautiful and one of the prettiest city waterfronts I've seen in Europe. Walking along the Douro River with a glass of port wine in hand feels a bit mandatory, or maybe that’s my excuse to drink alcohol, who knows. At night especially, the area springs to life!

To fully experience it and from a completely unique angle, one thing you should absolutely do at least once in your life is a helicopter ride. I have to say in Porto, they’re very reasonably priced and give you unmatched views of the city.

I climbed to the viewpoint at Porto Cathedral, wandered endlessly through the old streets and, of course, had to try a Francesinha. For anyone unfamiliar, this is essentially Portugal's answer to "how much food can we physically fit onto one meal?"

They have a vegetarian version and a very meat heavy one, which is the more traditional. And sure, it is delicious but if you’re like me, ½ of one is more than enough. Probably without the additional fries too.

The day took us through two of Portugal's most famous wine regions; Vinho Verde and the Douro Valley, where we visited family-run wineries, sampled an embarrassing amount of wine (roughly ten... not that I was counting), enjoyed a farm-to-table lunch overlooking the vineyards and finished with a lovely private boat cruise along the Douro River. The tour also included olive oil tastings and other local products, as well as plenty of insight into the region's wine-making traditions.

A little overview

Where I stayed: I am a sucker for family run boutique hotels and chose Porto Vintage Guesthouse. Every room is designed differently and beautifully, in a way that celebrates the local craftsmanship. Whether it is the tableware and plates, decorative pieces or glasswork, each been created by Portuguese artists and designers.

One final tip: Porto is very hilly. I think it’s less avoidable than Lisbon, especially if you’re not staying a bit more central. So once again learn from me, pack sensible and robust shoes!

While you’re in Porto:

✦ Ribeira District

✦ Dom Luís I Bridge

✦ Porto Cathedral

✦ São Bento Station

✦ Livraria Lello

✦ Mercado do Bolhão

✦ Douro River promenade

✦ Douro Valley vineyard tour

✦ Sunset walk across Dom Luís I Bridge