My No Bullshit Guide to Egypt
At a Glance
Best for: Ancient history, temples, diving & unique experiences
Where I stayed: Cairo • Faiyum • Aswan • Nile Cruise • Luxor • El Gouna
Solo Friendly: ★★☆☆☆ (Depends where. El Gouna and some other areas feel safe, but Cairo doesn’t)
Budget: $
Transport: Private tour, domestic flight & Nile cruise
Stop 1: Cairo (2 Days)
Why visit?
Home to the Pyramids of Giza, the Sphinx, the Egyptian Museum and some of the country's most beautiful Islamic architecture, why wouldn’t you?
Highlights
Pyramids of Giza & the Sphinx
Egyptian Museum
Khan El Khalili Bazaar
Muhammad Ali Mosque & Islamic Cairo
Combined mosque ticket (often referred to as the Islamic Cairo pass), which gives you access to many of the historic mosques and monuments in the area.
My take
Cairo, truthfully, completely overwhelmed me. Even with a private guide, I was inappropriately touched and constantly hassled for photos. I also found it far more hectic and unsanitary than I expected, although I usually go to places mentally prepared.
That said, I still think everyone should visit at least once because of course, seeing the pyramids in person and learning about their history is something spectacular. At the same time, the museums and mosques are also a must-do while you’re there to grasp more about the country.
Would I rush back? Probably not. I think once was definitely enough.
Stop 2: Faiyum Oasis (2 Days)
Why visit?
Around two hours southwest of Cairo, Faiyum is something differently entirely. It's known for waterfalls, desert scapes, a Whale Valley (Wadi Al-Hitan), ancient fossils and overnight desert camping.
Highlights
Desert camping
Wadi Al-Hitan (Whale Valley)
Magic Lake
Waterfalls
Sandboarding
My take
This wasn't originally on my itinerary but actually a recommendation from the tour organiser, Camping in the desert was a lovely addition to the trip, and I’ll always have fond memories playing football with him, and the locals, at the site. It was fascinating, trying to imagine these millions of year old fossils from when this area was underwater, and along the way, unexpectedly passing this absolutely stunning, colourful cemetery.
Do I think it’s a must? Not really, but it’s a nice-to-do if you’ve got the time.
Stop 3: Nile Cruise (4 Days)
Why do a Nile Cruise?
If like me, your route plan is awkward, a cruise between Aswan to Luxor is by far the easiest way to explore the country's incredible temples (without constantly packing and unpacking too).
Highlights
Philae Temple
Kom Ombo Temple
Edfu Temple
Karnak Temple
Luxor Temple
Valley of the Kings
Temple of Hatshepsut
Optional Abu Simbel excursion (extra 120€ approx)
My take
Without a doubt, one of the highlights of my entire trip, and one I’d really happily do again.
Being completely transparent, if you’re not an early bird, you’ll become one. You might be getting your ass out of bed most mornings at 4-5am to avoid the heat and crowds. But on the plus, you’ll have most of the day to relax on deck before dinner, enjoying sunset after sunset and enjoying a variety of different foods. There are themed nights too, with entertainment, but even as a solo traveler, they never felt awkward and everyone makes you feel totally at ease. Some vacationers even invite you to join them.
Fair general warning: Every site you stop at is undeniably incredible, but by the end... temple fatigue is definitely a thing.
Optional: Hot Air Balloon over Luxor
One of the most popular experiences in Luxor is a sunrise hot air balloon flight over the Nile and the Valley of the Kings.
The views were beautiful, but compared to other balloon rides I've done, the baskets were packed far too tightly. Unfortunately, it made it difficult to actually enjoy the scenery.
Stop 4: El Gouna (5 Days)
Why visit?
Built by Egyptian entrepreneur Samih Sawiris, El Gouna is a vivid network of lagoons on the Red Sea, and I think a bit less known than say Hurghada. Unique is an understatement, with bold, colourful architecture, marinas, boutique hotels and plenty of fantastic activities like diving, kitesurfing and island hopping.
I thought it would be another over-touristy, less authentic Red Sea resort, but surely, I was wrong. El Gouna seems to be very safe, relaxed and beautifully designed, which after Cairo and the busy days on the Nile, was perfect for relaxing and doing absolutely sod all.
I can't wait to go back and really recommend this for any vacation-goers looking into the region.
Highlights
Diving
Orange Bay day trip
Restaurants & cafés
Beaches
Boat trips
6×1 Tour (incl Orange Bay, Snorkelling & Diving)
8.5 hours, €60
I don’t want to be a party pooper but usually, I do not like boat cruises with too many people (more than 15 let’s say). However, this one was beyond worth it, especially for the price (under 60 euro). You have two snorkelling stops, a banana an introductory dive (as I’m qualified, I was allowed a regular one), time to relax at Orange Bay, a lovely lunch on board, and even a massage while sailing between stops - which was surprisingly very good. In fact, being the social butterfly I am, I ended up befriending and even joining on some mini activities, a family of parents and their adult children. 10/10!
Book here or click the photo
Final Thoughts
Egypt was definitely a mixed bag for me. Some parts were too much… a bit tiring, but then you're standing in front of the pyramids or inside a 3,000-year-old temple and thinking holy crap, I'm here.
I loved getting beyond Cairo and seeing the Nile, Faiyum and Luxor too. It wasn't always easy, but I absolutely loved those parts out of the city.
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